What’s for Dinner? 20100327: Pecan Oven Baked Catfish

Youngest Son came to visit this week (the reason why there was no Pique the Geek last Sunday, getting ready for his visit).  He is 20 and is in culinary school.  I am actually sort of pleased, as cooking good food is as important as being a scientist, and actually involves a lot of science to do it well.

We had a great time!  After the 10+ hour drive, he was pretty tired, but hungry.  I made Frog Sandwiches for both of us late Monday night (recipe available on request), talked, joked, went meet my dear neighbors across the street, and threw some darts.  Neither of us were very good at darts Monday.

However, this is a food essay, not one about us visiting for several days.  On Tuesday we used the Brinkman smoker that he and his other two brothers bought for me a couple of years ago to smoke a whole chicken.  Smoked chicken is excellent, especially if you have the luxury of using fruit wood.

I had cut down a very poorly performing flowering crab apple tree in my yard late last year, and have been working its wood up for smoking stock.  I love hickory wood for a smoke flavor, but it gets harsh after over a couple of hours.  Fruit wood can be used for many hours to smoke meat without any harshness.  As a rule of thumb, use hickory for fast cooking foods like thin ribs, steaks, chops, and the like.  For a thick piece of material like a chicken or a turkey, use fruit wood.

The smoker uses charcoal or wood, not propane.  This one is square, with a door that has a thermometer in it that opens to expose racks that can be removed and added.  This design is much better than my old smoker, also a Brinkman, that was cylindrical and had to be loaded with fuel, water, and food from the top.  The one with the door that can be accessed is much, much better.  Thanks to the boys for the gift!

We loaded the charcoal bowl with Royal Oak pure hardwood charcoal.  This product is just charred wood, with no processing other than cooling and bagging.  A ten pound bag of it is as large as a twenty pound bag of briquettes, and contains almost as much energy.  Briquettes are ground up wood charcoal, with clay and silicate binders to make their shape.  The binder content of briquettes is often over a third, and the binders do not burn to give energy.  In inferior briquettes, the binder might even have a foul scent when burnt.  There are several other brands of pure lump charcoal (Ozark Oak comes to mind), but Royal Oak is distributed by Wal-Mart and is commonly available.

Another advantage in pure lump charcoal is that, when your cooking is done, you can put it out and it will not fall apart as briquettes do.  Other than the smoker, I also use a Weber “kettle” style of grill for hamburgers, steaks, grilled vegetables, and other material that does better with fast, as opposed to slow, cooking.  My model allows me to control the air flow from both the top and the bottom, so I have complete control of the cooking environment.  Lump charcoal is perfect there, since it throws almost no ash (I use my Weber A LOT, and have to clean ash only twice a year at most).  When I get finished cooking, all that I have to do is close off the bottom damper and the top flue, and the fire dies out from lack of oxygen.  Briquettes would disintegrate into ashes in this environment, but pure lump charcoal just keeps it form and goes out in an orderly manner.

By the way, the lump charcoal is easy to light.  I just pile it onto the charcoal area of the Weber and then use a propane torch to get it going.  Depending on the wind, it only takes about 60 seconds to get it started and then 20 minutes for it to burn down for cooking.  There is no solvent scent, and you can use the propane torch for briquettes as well.

When igniting briquettes, you might notice some bright “fizzes” burning, regardless of the way that you ignite it.  That is because most commercial briquettes contain a little sodium or potassium nitrate (both are potent oxidizing agents) to make up for the 35% filler so that they will ignite.

The next day was Youngest Son’s day to cook.  He chose to use ingredients that I had (except that my olive oil was old and rancid, so we got some fresh).   The recipe, and its variations in parentheses, are as follows.

4 fluid ounces Dijon mustard (We used French’s Spicy, and it was good)

3 fluid ounces milk

7 ounces pecans, very finely chopped (We used pecans from Eldest Son’s back yard, and cracked them and picked them out whilst watching TeeVee)

6 fish fillets  (We used wild caught catfish from my freezer.

Salt and pepper to taste.

Mix the milk and mustard together and add the salt and pepper.  Take a sheet of waxed paper and pour the pecans on it and spread them out some.  Dip the fish in the mustard/milk mixture and shake off any excess.  Roll the fish in the pecans and place on a lightly oiled baking pan.

Cook in a preheated 450 degree F oven for 10 to 12 minutes.

We did all of this, but it would not cook.  It needs more like 30 to 45 minutes in the oven, but when it was done, it was really good.  We both agreed that he should have put more salt on the fish before  

He also cooked a wonderful rice pilaf using 1/2 fluid ounce butter

1/2 fluid ounce olive oil

1 1/2 ounce onion, finely diced

1 bay leaf

1/2 pound long grain rice

1 pint (U.S) chicken stock

Salt to taste

Saute the onion and bay leaf in the butter and olive oil until tender but not browned.  Add the rice to coat and stir.  Do not brown.  In the meantime, bring the stock to the boil.  Cover tightly and place in preheated 350 degree oven until the rice is just done, about 18 to 20 minutes.  Fluff the rice and remove the bay leaf.

This pilaf had to stand for longer than we expected because of the greater cooking time for the fish, but it was still perfect and a great side for the fish.  He also made a beurre blanc sauce with lemon juice for the fish.  It was a great meal.

The rest of the time we had leftover chicken or less special food, but we did not ever go hungry.  After he left yesterday morning, I removed what was left of the meat on the chicken, slicing the white meat and freezing it for sandwiches and taking the small bits and made chicken salad, which I ate for dinner.  I then boilt down the carcass for stock for the freezer and took the remains to my neighbor whose dog loves such things.  With all of the boiling, the leg bones were soft enough not to be a splinter hazard.

Well, now you know what I had for dinner.  What about you?  By the way, Pique the Geek will return tomorrow night at 9 PM eastern, with the third of three installments on nuclear fusion.

Warmest regards,

Doc

Crossposted at Daily Kos

26 comments

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  1. for good company and good food?

    Warmest regards,

    Doc

    • TMC on March 28, 2010 at 01:03

    The grilling season is fast approaching, though in my house it’s year round. I have gas and charcoal grills, both are Weber. The gas grill is built into an outdoor kitchen. There is also a wood burning brick oven that my husband and son-in-law built for my daughter and me. My daughter is the official bread baker, although, I do lend a hand. I just can’t make rye or pumpernickel breads as rye flour triggers my asthma. Whole wheat, no problem.

    I love the pure hardwood charcoal, the food also has a better flavor. I have discovered cooking on cedar planks which imparts a very special flavor to fish like Salmon.

    TexMex from dkos gave me the instructions for this easy recipe for Salmon on Cedar Planks

    Salmon on Cedar

    Salmon on Cedar, cooked

    So simple but you need to get the knack of cooking on cedar planks.

    Get thin planks like the ones pictured.

    Soak for at least one hour.  I have one soaking all the time.

    Find some really lovely salmon like the wild salmon pictured or when that’s not available I use Lock Duart.  Remove the skin and I like to cut into portions before cooking for more area reached by the smoke.

    Remove board from water, salt and pepper the board, place the salmon on, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with brown sugar.

    Build a wood fire (shhhhhhh, don’t tell the greenroots guys) grill salmon on plank for 8 to 15 min. until sugar is browned.  My grill hood thermometer must go over 500 degrees to get a good brown on the salmon.

    Cooking on wood is always touch and go so you really need to get the knack of it and adjust for the weather, etc.

    Oh, and she corrected her spelling “Loch” not “Lock”

  2. and I picked some up.

    Not a complicated recipe and easy to clean.  It should would for just about any fish.

    You need-

    Foil to package each fillet completely.

    Lemon slices to seperate the fish from the foil.  Wash them before slicing but you needn’t be fussy about seeds and such since you’re going to pitch them and they don’t have to be all that thick, I used 1 lemon for 2 fillets (you can use the end pieces too).

    Dill (or another fish spice you like), old and dry will do.

    A tiny bit of Olive Oil.  Salt and Pepper if you like.

    The point is you’re going to steam the fish in a foil package and the Lemon slices and the Dill are going to give it a nice flavor and aroma.

    Now you should probably thaw the fish but I can’t be bothered and the only thing it affects is your cooking time-

    15 to 20 minutes at 450 v. 40 – 45 for still frozen.

    Also if your fish isn’t frozen you can season both sides, but I found seasoning the top only was good enough.

    Anyway, assembly-

    Lemon slices, fish, drizzle of Olive Oil (helps stick the spices, Salt and Pepper (if you’re going to bother, I didn’t), Dill (quite a bit actually, but I have lots although it is old and dry).

    Fold your foil to tent your fish (umm… you’re making a rectangle so this is the long seam) and roll it down so the seam is reasonably tight (don’t fuss too much, your package will explode.  Now roll up the ends.

    You fish is done when it’s white, fork tender at it’s thickest point (especially important for frozen), and visibly flakey.

    If you are worried about doneness throw it in for another 10 minutes or more, you’ll burn your lemons before you burn your fish.

    Lift the fish off the lemons using a pair of forks or a thin spatula.  Take all your mess and pitch it.

    Serve with additional Lemon (or Lime) juice, Olive Oil or Butter, Salt and Pepper to taste.

    This is really much much easier to do than it is to explain.

  3. ….  don’t know that if they’re trying to avoid gluten, they need to use pure charcoal or real wood, because some brands use wheat in the binder paste (the howls of indignation are strong on the celiac forums when people ask for help trying to figure out why they got sick on their otherwise carefully done  barbequeing and one says “have you checked your charcoal, what brand did you use ?”  )

    My husband takes salmon and pan sears it in olive oil, then mixes mustard and mayonnaise together for a “dipping sauce.”   We’ve also used ground almonds as a fish coating, they can be mixed with sorghum and amaranth flours and the fish dredged with that before cooking.

    (we have a small kitchen, so mostly one person is cooking in there at at time.  the first time he kicks me out of the kitchen, and then he put this plate of nicely gf breaded fish in front of me, I’m like, honey, just what did you use to do this? because I have a lot of different kinds of gluten free alternative flours stored in the refrigerator, all of which don’t quite behave the way wheat does when you try to cook with it.  He says, “oh, there was this bag on the top shelf you had mixed up and I just used that.”   Of all the stuff to pick he had tried the one nobody would have thought of to try to pan fry fish with, the sorghum/amaranth mix,  and it came out perfectly.      

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