Doing it for Ourselves 1.1

Last week I posted the first of this fledgling series here. This series is about the broad theme of self-reliance and sustainable living. Each week’s post will have a different topic or focus, though I hope people will use the comments to talk about whatever their related interests and specialties might be or ask questions that others can answer. Today’s installment will focus on preservation, or how to make the things you have at home last.

Society everywhere is in a conspiracy against the manhood of every one of its members. Society is a joint-stock company, in which the members agree, for the better securing of his bread to each shareholder, to surrender the liberty and culture of the eater. The virtue in most request is conformity. Self-reliance is its aversion. It loves not realities and creators, but names and customs. ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson from Self Reliance

But lo! men have become the tools of their tools. ~Henry David Thoreau from Walden

Preservation is the activity of maintaining an object in its existing state, protecting it from harm and deterioration. In other words, it is the things we can do to make our possessions last, whether cherished heirlooms and mementos from family and travels or the things we use and don’t want to have to replace all the time, such as furniture, because of wastefulness and expense.

Many of the activities involved in preservation have to do with good common sense. Preservation is very similar to preventative medicine in principle, in fact it is also called preventative conservation.

First, it is important to know what causes things to fall apart, or to deteriorate. Here’s a basic list:

AGENTS OF DETERIORATON

Mechanical:
Direct physical forces (theft, vandalism, poor handling, poor storage support or display mounts, vibration, abrasion)

Environmental
Disasters: flood, fire, earthquake, tornado
Long term incremental: improper light/radiation, improper temperature, improper humidity

Chemical
Pollution and pollutants: Nitric acid, sulfuric acid, ozone, salts, chlorine, formaldehyde, smoke,
Improper cleaning products: bleaches, oxidants, metal tarnish strippers, aluminum-based metal cleaners, detergents, solvents, solvent and oil-based furniture polishes
Unstable prior repair materials: Super glues, epoxies, impure polyvinyl acetates, cellulose nitrates, rubber cement, adhesive tapes, staples, straight pins, steel paper clips

Biological
Pests (insects, rodents, birds, bats) mold and fungi

Inherent vice
The object itself is made of poor quality or incompatible materials. Examples include:
Newsprint, wood pulp papers are highly acidic; Low binder paints, the binder deteriorates leaving powdery pigment; High soda content glass, crizzles and develops glass disease; Cellulose nitrate- imitation ivory, tortoise shell, old film negatives

WHAT YOU CAN DO
The following is a brief outline of steps you can take to ensure the long term preservation of objects. Links are provided at the end of this essay where you can find more detailed information, or you can ask questions about specifics in the comments.

1. Control the environment
Relative Humidity & Temperature:
Extreme changes in humidity and temperatures and extreme levels of both accelerate chemical and physical deterioration processes. Try to maintain a stable %RH with swings no greater than 10%. The cooler the temperature the more ideal, but a range of 68 to 72 degrees F is a good rule of thumb. Some materials, such as photographic negatives, are best preserved in cold storage.

High moisture can cause warping, mold growth (RH>68%), corrosion – chemical processes
Low moisture can cause shrinkage and cracking
· HVAC systems, Dehumidifiers, Humidifiers
· Buffer from the extremes of winter lows and summer highs
· Buffering includes the use of cabinetry, silica gels, other sorbing materials

Light:
UV Radiation
UV radiation causes discoloration including bleaching/fading and accelerates the degradation of organic materials
Avoid exposure to direct sunlight (20,000 lux)
Use UV filters on windows and Fluorescent lamps (700 lux)

Sensitive materials: watercolors, organic dyes (50 lux)
Medium sensitivity: Oil paints, acrylics, durable dyes (150 lux)
Low sensitivity: inorganic materials – stone, metal, ceramics, some glass

Infrared radiation: can cause heat build up

2. Security from Theft and Disaster
· Alarm systems – security, fire, water, carbon monoxide
· Fire extinguishers, good drainage
· Disaster preparedness plan for your home
· Disaster Response kit for your home

3. Proper storage and display
· Storage areas should be on ground level if possible, not in basements or attics.
· Storage should be kept environmentally controlled, secure, clean and pest free
· Food and beverages should not be allowed in storage areas
· Ideally storage should be dedicated to that purpose
· Ideally objects should be stored within enclosed cabinets or containers
· Only use inert, stable, safe storage and display materials
· Objects should be provided with structural support if required with rigid mounts, padding or other support materials. Examples of good storage materials include:

*Polyethylene plastics – bags, sheeting, boxes (zip locks are polyethylene)
*Acrylic plastics – plexiglass
*Acid free cotton paper tissues
*Pure un-dyed cotton fabrics – muslin
*Polyester fabrics and fiber fills
*Coated and sealed shelving or mounts
*Non-off gassing or incompatible materials
*Unbleached cotton thread, twine or string
*Unbleached cotton fabric twill tape

· Avoid chemically reactive storage and display materials, which include:

*Polyurethanes
*Polyvinyl chlorides (PVC)
*Styrenes
*Untreated wood, oak – acidic
*Offgassing adhesives, paints, varnishes & other coatings
*Wool felt fabric
*Acidic papers
*Rubber bands
*Masking or cellophane tapes
*Staples, metal paper clips, safety pins

Tips for displaying objects and art:
*Keep sensitive materials displayed and stored away from sources of light, heat
*Use UV filtering on display case glazing and frame glazing and use appropriate lighting
*Avoid attaching objects on display with nails, pins, and tacks
*Use clear sticky wax to secure objects such as glazed ceramics and glass to shelving
*Use support stands, rings, and other supporting materials to cushion and stabilize objects

4. Proper Handling
Most damage to objects results from human klutziness or rambunctious pets and kids. There are several steps you can take when handling and moving objects to help prevent their damage.

· Secure any loose parts first or remove them and handle them separately
· Avoid haste and plan out where you are going
· Get help if the object is heavy or awkward
· Don’t overload a box or mix heavy and fragile items
· Use a support box, tray, hangar and cushioning if possible
· Make sure hands are clean and dry and/or wear gloves
· Use both hands to carry
· Don’t lift an object by its weak points – rims, handles, projections
· Keep the object away from ink, other liquids, food or sharp objects
· Be careful of any jewelry or watch you might be wearing
· Always wear gloves when handling metals, photos or fragile papers

5. Inspection, Maintenance and Cleaning

Cleaning can help to ensure that objects can be preserved for longer. Even the floors can play a huge part in keeping objects in good condition. For example, using the best steam mop for tile floors can help to reduce dust on the floors, as well as reducing bacteria and germs. This should, hopefully, help to ensure objects remain well-kept.

· Clean regularly to remove dust and detritus from storage and display areas.
· For storage areas, use white liner material such as a white sheet on shelving to be able to see soiling or insect activity
· Use sticky traps and other monitors to evaluate the presence of pests.
· Don’t use mothballs or other chemical pesticides on objects
· Cleaning of floors and shelves is best done with a well filtered vacuum (See https://www.bissell.com/vacuums/canister-vacuums)
· Avoid sweeping as it just redistributes dust in the air – acidic and abrasive
· To clean objects use a soft lint-free cloth or a low-pressure vacuum with plastic screening and soft brushes. If you don’t have this much of a specific vacuum, check out https://allgreatvacuums.com/ for reviews and a variety of different ones for you to make a specific purchase.

o Furniture/Wood: hard wax-based polish no more than once a year. Overwaxing attracts dust. Avoid solvent-based spray polishes and oils. Use a soft cloth or vacuum to remove dust. Watch for lifting and cracking, fading and warping
Be careful of spills and scratches. Vacuum upholstery and drapery.

o Baskets and other fiber objects: brush and vacuum, avoid water and other chemicals

o Metals: avoid overpolishing. Do not use quick dip polishes (SO2) Some polishes are less aggressive and abrasive (Hagerty’s, pacific silver cloth)

o Leather: avoid waxes or soaps. Keep away from sulfur-based materials (rubber, hair, wool) You could look at pages on leather care if you take pride in taking care of your leather furniture without creating further damage.

o Mixed materials: vacuum with soft brushes

For more information here are some good on-line resources:

Conserve O Grams
Technical Bulletins provided from the National Park Service

Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute, Taking Care brochures

Preparing, Protecting, Preserving Family Treasures
From the Library of Congress

Northeast Document Conservation Center
Technical bulletins/leaflets specializing in paper, books and photos

Conservation and Art Material Encyclopedia Online (CAMEO)

Archival storage materials and supplies
Light Impressions (especially good for photo preservation)
1-800-828-6216

University Products
1-800-628-1912

Gaylord Bros.
1-800-634-6307

I hope this info will be helpful to you all. If you have any questions about things that are broken or falling apart, besides your own selves, I’d be happy to try to answer any questions or offer advise or resources. I normally charge big bucks for this stuff, so take advantage of me! hahaha

14 comments

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  1. Tonight I’m going out to a new Spanish place that has live Flamenco music and dancers! Arrrrriba!

  2. I now live in a more humid area, and have a beautiful rosewood and teak chest that is beginning to warp on top.  Thanks for the links and overview.

  3. As one who is genetically predisposed to collecting, I now find myself in a situation where it’s time to let it all go.

    There is a great deal of responsibility in owning ‘stuff’. This essay is a terrific resource to cleaning much of my stuff so that it is presentable to other potential collectors.

    One question: I have a lovely collection of Oaxacan wood carvings. Two of them have broken legs and I don’t know what type of glue to use. I’m not sure of the type of wood, but they are very light weight. Any suggestions?

    • RiaD on September 22, 2007 at 20:44

    I’ve hotlisted to peruse later. I was on my way out when I saw you. Lovely Saturday here…the hammock is calling my name 🙂
    Hope yours is as peaceful.

    • fatdave on September 23, 2007 at 03:42

    how the Der Gruene Punkt system in Germany forced a company I worked for back then to look at how  it’s somewhat excessive use of EPS packaging materials might have it’s environmental effects minimised. And how the suppliers showed us a presentation of how the blowing agent can be removed and the de-expanded muck then processed and used as hardcore in roads which makes them last for ages longer than when using standard hardcore fillings. I was going to. Then I thought you’d either ask about or know about the science. So I looked at the science. Please don’t ask me about the science.

  4. A true blooded bibliophile I would rather give up a meal a day than buying books.

    I’m always concerned about the proper bookcases glass fronts for my 100-150 y/o books. This reduces the dust and we are in my medium humidity area. But we also have some at our place in the mountains which averages 10-15% humidity or less.

    How can I make sure that the books don’t dry out too much?

    If I store them, how do I keep silverfish away from the boxes?

    Nice stuff…and hot linked!

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